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How to Make This Waldorf-Inspired Doll!



Waldorf dolls are expensive. A new handmade doll will run you between $60 and $100. If you are looking for a way to make your own, check out these instructions. This doll was made almost entirely from recycled and trash materials. I use mostly old clothing for my projects.







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This is a very heavy and firm doll. She weighs two or three pounds and is well-stuffed. She has jointed arms and legs. I don't have a machine and sewed this doll entirely by hand in four days. You can use a machine for sewing around the body if you like, but all other parts require very simple hand sewing using either a running stitch or a whip stitch.

You will need:
-one large old sweater (I used 100% wool)
-cloth for body: must be a knit-type fabric, the thicker the better. It should have a slight give, but shouldn't stretch too much. I used an old hemp receiving blanket. Something like a thick sweatshirt would work.
-lots of yarn for the hair
-cotton twine (I used crochet thread)
-embroidery thread for features
-large needles
-scrap paper for drawing pattern



Fig. 1: Begin with the head form. First, cut an arm from your wool sweater. Roll it tightly into a ball. The ball should be firm with only a little give and should be about four to four and a half inches in diameter.

Fig. 2: Have the back panel of the sweater cut out. Place the ball in the center of the back panel and wrap the sweater around the ball. Pull the sweater tight around the ball so it holds it together. Using heavy cotton twine, tie the base tightly so that the ball stays firmly in the sweater.

Fig. 3: Wrap twine tightly around the head three or four times and pull it tight so that it creates an indentation. Tie securely in the back.



Fig. 4: Wrap twine around the head form again, this time vertically. Pull it as tight as you can to create an indentation in the head form. Using a large needle and some more twine, sew an X across the points where the twine intersects to keep it from slipping.

Fig. 5: Using a crochet hook, pull the twine down in the back of the head. This isn't necessary, but will give the back of the head a rounder, more pleasing shape. If it's too tight to pull down, don't worry about it.



Fig. 6: Make a nose for the doll by gathering a circular patch of the cloth in the front using a needle and thread. poke the needle through and under the fabric across back and forth in a circular shape and pull tightly. This will cause a small lump of fabric to bunch up in the front.



Fig. 7: Place the face of the doll into the front of a piece of the flesh fabric and fold the sides around to the back of the head. Press the two sides of the fabric together in the back and sew them together with a running stitch along the back of the head. Use cotton twine, not sewing thread. Cut the excess fabric off of the back but leave the top and bottom.



Fig. 8: Tie twine or yarn loosely around the base to keep the fabric from slipping up. You will cut this after this step. Next, Pull the top part of the fabric so that it conforms to the shape of the head. I used three triangles like so. Using twine, hand-sew along these spots so that your fabric conforms tightly to the head shape without any creases going down into the face area. Cut the excess fabric from the top leaving about 1/4 inch of fabric above where you have sewn. The top of the head should now be closed. Remove the tie from the bottom.



Fig. 9: Turn the head cloth right-side out so that the seams are inside. Place it correctly over the head form. Using a pencil, VERY LIGHTLY draw a hairline around the face where you want the hair to go. It should be barely visible so that once you sew hair into it, you won't see the pencil line at all. Cut tons and TONS of hair from your yarn. Make each twice the length that you want the hair to be. Tie a knot in the middle of each piece and use a large needle to sew each end of the yarn through the back of the head. When turned inside out, all you should see inside the head are knots. Fill the entire hairline of the doll with yarn. (You are going to need about ten times more than you think you will!)

(Want an easier way to add the hair? Try this!)



Fig. 10: Put the skin back over the head of the doll and pull it in to place. Gather the cloth tightly around the base of the head form so that no wrinkles appear in the front around the chin area. Wrinkles in the back will not be noticeable. Using twine, tie tightly and securely several times around the base of the head form. Use embroidery thread to sew the face on only AFTER you have secured the face to the head. Do not mark the placement of the features with a pencil or pen. If you must, use a pin stuck straight into the head form to mark eyes and mouth. To keep it looking tidy, tie a knot in the end of your thread and go in through the back of the head and then out through the eye or nose to create the embroidery. When finishing, go back out the back of the head. This keeps your stitching looking neat so you can't see the ends.

Making the face is difficult for some. If you make a mistake, simply pull stitches out going backwards and then redo it to correct it. You are not using a permanent marker. Sewing is easy to undo and redo. You can do it over again a hundred times until it's perfect if you have to. To make sure the features are straight, face the doll in a mirror and look at the reflection. Sometimes you may not notice it's crooked until you do this.

If you would like to add blush to your doll, you can use some light pink lipstick, blush, or very watered down acrylic paint. Start with the barest tiny amount. It's less than you think. You can always dab more on as you go if you want it darker. ALWAYS test this on a scrap of fabric a few times before trying it on your doll's face.



Fig 11: Draw and cut the pattern for the body as you see above. It appears as though the legs are tapered in the drawing. They are not. They should go straight down. The dotted lines are folds. Fold the paper and draw only one side of the pattern. That way, when you cut it out and unfold it, both sides will be identical. For the legs, only the front piece will have the arches where the feet will go. The back piece should be cut straight across the bottom of the legs.

Lay the pattern on the back of your fabric (the side that will be inside the doll) and draw around each piece. You will need two of each. When cutting out the pieces of the doll, leave 1/4 inch around the pattern you have drawn. Lay both halves of the body face-to-face (with the part that will be inside the body facing out) and sew around the edges. If you are hand sewing, a small running stitch with twine is good. You can use a machine for this part. Leave the bottoms of the feet open as well as holes for the neck and the arms.

Fold each arm in half and sew around the edge, leaving the hole in the end of the arm open. Turn the arms right-side-out and insert them inside the body through the arm holes in the body. Sew the arms to the body around the rim at the base of the arm where it meets the body under the shoulder. When you turn the doll right-side out, the arms will be properly sewn in place.



Fig. 12: Once the body is sewn together and turned right-side out, you can create the feet. The feet are for advanced crafters. If you are a beginner or cannot understand this part, you can simply sew around the base of the leg instead of sewing feet onto the doll.

Sew the top piece of the foot over and around the arch at the base of the leg. Then turn the doll inside-out again and sew the sole of the foot around the base. Turn the doll right-side out again and tightly stuff a pencil-thick roll of cotton fabric into the toe area of the foot. Using cotton twine, sew and tie toe shapes into the tips of the feet.



Fig. 13: Using wads of the wool sweater, stuff the hands and feet of the doll. Next, cut a long strip of sweater that is as wide as the legs are long. Cut this piece exactly down the center down the long way so that you have two very long strips. Starting from one end. roll one of these strips up very very tightly into a roll like a sushi roll. Stick it down into the leg of the doll. It should fit very tightly. If it isn't tight, add more to the outside of the roll to make it thicker. Make four of these and push them down into the legs of the doll. Each leg should have two rolls in it so that the doll will bend at the knee somewhat, but the leg above and below the joint remain firm. Do the same for both arms of the doll.

Using pieces cut from the remainder of your sweater, stuff the body of the doll. To prevent lumps, first stuff one large piece in so that it fills the doll the way a trash bag fills the rubbish can all around the sides and bottom. Then stuff your stuffing into this. Leave some room at the top of the body.

Insert the head into the body of the doll. There should still be plenty of room, so once the head is in, continue stuffing the doll body around the base of the head until it is stuffed as firm as you like it. Then fold the edges of the shoulders in and whip-stitch the shoulders closed starting from the outside and going in toward the neck. Use twine for this. Once the head is sewn tightly into the body, secure it by sewing with twine through the neck back and forth around the top of the body so that it cannot be pulled out, even with great force.

To make a belly button and bottom for the doll, push a needle with some twine into the doll where you want the belly button of the doll to be and out through the crotch of the doll. Pull it up around the butt of the doll and push the needle back into the doll where you want the top of the butt crack to be and push it through the doll and back out about 1-2mm from where the thread first went in. Pull the twine tightly to create the indentations for the bottom and the belly button, then tie two tight knots in the center of the belly button and clip the thread ends.

Now the doll should be finished. Keep the pattern for future use and do not throw it away! You will need it to make patterns for clothing for your doll. Simple clothes are best. When creating patterns for clothes, simply lay the doll pattern onto the paper you are cutting the clothing pattern from. Trace around the body leaving a space about 1/4 to 1/3 between the edges of the patterns. You want the clothes to fit somewhat loosely so that a child can take them on and off.

 

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Comments

( 38 comments — Leave a comment )
impossibleway
May. 24th, 2009 05:28 pm (UTC)
Thanks for the instructions! I will file them away for when my little one is big enough to play with a doll. :-)
tabulimanzi
Jul. 23rd, 2009 10:19 pm (UTC)
I'm not a member of this group but I want to say THANK you for posting this I've wanted to get my daughters waldorf dolls for a long time but... 100 dollars for a doll?? Not for me even if we could afford it that is crazy(imo) so thank you so much!!
amberskyfire
Jul. 24th, 2009 06:50 am (UTC)
You are welcome! I admit, it's a lot of work. After making this one, I can totally understand selling them for that much. I'd want way more for it. It took me a few days to make it and that was hours put into it each day.

You appreciate them more when you make them yourself, though :)
mothermedoula
Sep. 23rd, 2009 08:02 pm (UTC)
Thank you!
I saw your letter in this month's mothering mag.
thank you!!!! for your website.

I'm going to do this project.
I love it and I'm going to share it with other moms I know.

liz
lovequote
Nov. 29th, 2009 03:11 pm (UTC)
Very cute.. and my daughter's initials are AES so I am definitely stealing the initials on the butt idea :)

I am definitely joining this community. I'm only sorry I never saw it before! I have so much to go through and read!
altarflame
Apr. 26th, 2010 08:37 pm (UTC)
This is a great pattern!
In step 4, am I sewing an x on the intersection in the front or in the back of the head?
amberskyfire
Apr. 26th, 2010 09:24 pm (UTC)
Re: This is a great pattern!
The Xs are on either SIDE of the head, not the front or back. Hope that helps :)
altarflame
Apr. 26th, 2010 10:58 pm (UTC)
Re: This is a great pattern!
1. OOOOOOOoooooOOOOh! That makes a ton more sense!!!

(an hour later)

2. Um...Ok. I'm having a serious problem, I'm starting to think it's impossible to do the x-sewing. I am not a great sewer. I crochet and knit really well, but sewing always gets me to this point of frustration where I want to gouge my eyes out, and that is where I'm at now. Basically I only have two kinds of hand sewing needles in this house- yarn darning needles, that are too blunt to go through so much thick fabric, and quilting needles, which are too thin and fragile to force through so much fabric without them snapping in half. Is there some sort of mid-grade thickness needle that actually makes this possible?? In both instance I've tried (...repeatedly :x) I have no idea how I'm supposed to grip the slippery stuck needle hard enough to actually make it come through.

I'm sorry I am so dense, and understand completely if you don't have time to deal with my nonsense.
amberskyfire
Apr. 26th, 2010 11:01 pm (UTC)
Re: This is a great pattern!
No, that's okay :) I used a regular sewing needle and didn't have any trouble at all, but if you find it's not working with a sewing needle, you might be able to try an upholstry needle. You can also get curved upholstry needles which would make making the X a little easier.

They look like this:
http://www.ashburn-upholstery.co.uk/images/165%20curved%20needles.jpg
altarflame
Apr. 27th, 2010 02:51 am (UTC)
Re: This is a great pattern!
Thank you for that link - I went and got an upholstery needle tonight and think it will help tremendously. If I ever actually finish the doll, I will link you to some pics :)
amberskyfire
Apr. 27th, 2010 05:02 am (UTC)
Re: This is a great pattern!
I'd LOVE to see some pictures of your doll :) Only one person has sent me any pictures. Hers was super cute.
Jeanette Prince
Jan. 13th, 2012 09:36 pm (UTC)
Re: This is a great pattern!
THIS comment was SO helpful!
lillybelly
Aug. 6th, 2010 07:40 am (UTC)
First thank you for the tutorial! =)

I'm trying to figure out how you did the hair.. i'm not understanding how you did it...:(
You gave an alternative site to do the hair, but i personally like yours better..

So I cut the yarn and then tie a knot in the middle.. but how do I sew it on the head then..? I'm having a hard time imagining this.. can't figure out..

Please help. I'm sorry for being an idiot..

amberskyfire
Aug. 6th, 2010 08:12 am (UTC)
It's no problem, and you aren't an idiot :)

When you finish sewing the outer layer of fabric and face for the head, remove it from the head form and turn it right-side out so that all of the seams are inside. Then, thread a large needle with one of the knotted pieces of yarn.

Holding the needle, put your hand inside of the outer layer of face skin and push the needle up into the scalp and out the top, pulling the strand of hair out with it. The knot in the yarn will stop it halfway. Remove the needle from the yarn.

Thread the other end of the yarn - the end hanging from the inside of the head skin - through the needle. Put it up inside of the head skin like the first strand and push the needle up out of the scalp a few millimeters away from the first. You should now have two strands of hair sticking out of the top of the scalp. Keep doing this until the whole area of the head is covered with hair where you want it. (You can pull the head skin back over the head form from time to time to make sure it looks okay, then pull it off again to add new hair.

When you are done, all of the hair will be coming out the top of the head skin. If you look inside of it, all you will see are knots.

Let me know if that doesn't make sense. It is SO difficult to describe without photos. If you just can't figure it out at all, wait a couple of days and I'll see if I can take some photos for you of me doing it. I'm working on two dolls right now for someone.
lillybelly
Aug. 6th, 2010 07:17 pm (UTC)
Thank you so much! I truly appreciated it. I figured it out after much contemplation. =)

Since you are working on two dolls right now, do you think you could take a photo of how you connect the head to the body and the arms and legs..? Or even just the finish product close up of it, would be of great help.

I tried to make one yesterday, it turned okay but how I attached the arms and the head to the body, doesn't look too great.

Any tips would be awesome.
lillybelly
Aug. 6th, 2010 08:09 am (UTC)
I figured it out!! thanks again
tikizeekbaby
Nov. 9th, 2010 09:07 pm (UTC)
Waldorf Doll Pattern
:) Hello,

By any chance do you have this posted anywhere else?

Your pattern used to have your diagrams with it (maybe your hosting service expired)... by any chance do you have it posted somewhere else? I'd been saving the pattern for two Christmas gifts I plan to make, and naturally, now that I'm actually ready... the diagrams you did that really helped me visualize it aren't showing.

Thank you :)
tikizeekbaby
Nov. 9th, 2010 09:08 pm (UTC)
Re: Waldorf Doll Pattern
LOL... after reloading twice... I posted this note... and there are the diagrams again! LOL

Thank you? LOL
amberskyfire
Nov. 9th, 2010 10:10 pm (UTC)
Re: Waldorf Doll Pattern
LOL! :) I'm glad they are working at least. Have fun making them!
willowsma
Apr. 30th, 2011 02:58 pm (UTC)
Pattern
Approximately how much cloth for the body should I get?? I wish I had an old hemp receiving blanket to use, but I do not :(
Thank you for this wonderful pattern!!
amberskyfire
Apr. 30th, 2011 06:19 pm (UTC)
Re: Pattern
Goodness, I'm not sure! I would say a yard and a half for the whole thing, just to be on the safe side.
willowsma
May. 3rd, 2011 10:57 pm (UTC)
#8!
Really stuck on step #8! How do I close the top of the head??
amberskyfire
May. 4th, 2011 07:27 am (UTC)
Re: #8!
Just like in figure #8, fold the cloth together around the top and sew along the folds right up against the scalp. When you cut it and turn it inside out, it will have stitched lines at the top. Or you can just close it any way you can figure out to do it. :) Sorry if I'm not the best at description.
willowsma
May. 4th, 2011 03:35 pm (UTC)
Re: #8!
Thank you! Figured it out! Funny you said you aren't the best at description, because I had just been thinking how GREAT you are at description :)) I probably will have more questions, thank you for answering them! Now off to add the hair :)
(Deleted comment)
(Deleted comment)
amberskyfire
Jul. 9th, 2011 05:38 am (UTC)
Oh, wonderful! :) I'm so glad you find it useful. I was scared that the pattern might be a bit difficult. Happy crafting!
(Deleted comment)
amberskyfire
Jul. 24th, 2011 06:10 pm (UTC)
Re: userpic says it all
Oooh! Great work! I love her hair. :)
camporinaldo
Aug. 19th, 2011 02:07 pm (UTC)
Well!
Erin D
Nov. 10th, 2011 11:30 pm (UTC)
Thank you! I have been searching high and low for a dimensions chart for a doll like this. I am knitting for a waldorf doll that won't be in my hands till Christmas, and this was very helpful!

babyfingers.blogspot.com
Dec. 12th, 2011 09:31 pm (UTC)
This is the best tutorial I've ever seen for one of these dolls, and I LOVE how you use a sweater rather than wool stuffing for the head and body. I collect sweaters and probably have the perfect one already. Can't wait to try this! Thanks!
Jeanette Prince
Jan. 13th, 2012 09:34 pm (UTC)
I just finished a doll using your tutorial, I am thankful for it! I didn't have anything close to these materials so I hit the thrift store and made a doll of an organic cotton shirt and a lambswool sweater I found. The only problem I had was that after the whole doll was together its head looked a little small for the body, I would have benefited from an estimation of head circumference! (in case you ever make a tutorial to sell or something). Thanks again
amberskyfire
Jan. 14th, 2012 04:17 am (UTC)
No problem! Can you open up the head and add more stuffing? I always say to make the body first, then the head. That way you can make sure it's the right size. I don't think the kids really notice or care, though. :)
Trisha Dearing
Mar. 25th, 2012 04:28 pm (UTC)
feet
thank you for this tutorial!
I have a question about the feet. In fig. 11, I realize the sketch is a rough drawing, but after cutting it out, I cannot seem to make the piece fit in any way to create an arch. Is there any way you could expand on this a little more? Thanks so much
amberskyfire
Mar. 25th, 2012 07:57 pm (UTC)
Re: feet
Aloha! I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you mean, but I *think* you mean the arch over the top of the foot? There is a second foot piece. The round, curved part of the top foot piece is the toe. The flat back part is sewn against the cut arched area of the legs. If it helps, look at a pair of children's footie pajamas. That's how I got the idea to shape the foot.
Linzy Nelson
May. 1st, 2012 10:50 pm (UTC)
thank you
Thank you for your shared instructions and patterns I have been making dolls for a year now and I share your link on my page for anyone else who is interested because they cant afford one, just like me :D
Melissa Phinney
May. 17th, 2012 01:13 am (UTC)
Toes
Those toes are absolutely adorable! I havn't seen toes on any waldorf doll and would love to make some on mine's feet, any suggestions or close ups on how to do it?
amberskyfire
May. 17th, 2012 07:17 am (UTC)
Re: Toes
Sure! There are instructions on this page:
http://doingwithout.livejournal.com/41229.html
Singletary Parker
Dec. 20th, 2012 10:40 pm (UTC)
Thanks for the great tutorial!
I have been working on my first doll for months now, and I am attaching the head tonight, just in time for a Christmas present for my three year old. Just wanted to say thanks! It was super helpful.

I'll post photos on my blog after Christmas. = )

Caroline @ The Feminist Housewife
http://davidandcarolineparker.blogspot.com
Tanglewoodart
Feb. 21st, 2014 09:54 am (UTC)
doll instructions,
Thank you, wonderful easy to follow instructions,
and super webpage.
regards
carole
( 38 comments — Leave a comment )